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may i ask if you shoot at total darknes (no moon) to get such milky way details Kevin please ?
i tried shooting milky @ iso800 but no luck i admit with a 550D
The main secret is shooting a number of images continuously (say a minimum of 10 but 20 would be better) and then stacking them with DeepSky Stacker which is free software. This increases the signal to noise ratio and allows you to pull out more detail in the final image.
The 550D will work fine at iso 800 but if you have slow lenses this might be a problem. I normally use a 24mm f1.4 at f2.8 and 30 second exposures which improves the details in the corners and records a good amount of signal. Any longer exposures start to show the star trailing too much so if I go wider I could go longer.
The alternative is to use a motorised mount which will allow you much longer exposures without star trails
my only lens is a 28mm EF old zoom lens -28 at widest but 3.5 is not good...
i added magic lantern hack on 550D to see if i could get better noise production at iso 1250 but image come very low contrast and random purple-pinkish pixels appear as well...
on mac i use NR in photoshop as have no other means for processing on old PPC G5 2Ghz machine right now.
i use rule 600 ... 600 divided by focal length i.e. 50= 30seconds max for stary spots. In my case wide open i find it hard as i am at 13secf3.5 @800asa.
Would you suggest to try and see if i could divide the time i.e. 13sec /5 multiple exposures at 1/4s shutter as in the past with film multiple exposures to see if i can get a better exposure ?
Personally I would look up Dark frames in google and turn off all the in camera noise reduction and use the dark frames to reduce noise when stacking a number of images.
i think dark frames is the only solution for me right now, although techniques vary on the best elimination of noise. i hope i will get some nice results on them
well, i will try next it next time. i got 2 seconds video of a timelapse test i did last time in this [link]